{"id":13203,"date":"2026-06-10T15:58:24","date_gmt":"2026-06-10T13:58:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.petagus.it\/?p=13203"},"modified":"2026-06-15T10:29:45","modified_gmt":"2026-06-15T08:29:45","slug":"natos-santo-stefano-base-the-secret-history-of-the-bunkers","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.petagus.it\/en\/santo-stefano-base-nato-la-storia-segreta-dei-bunker\/","title":{"rendered":"NATO\u2019s Santo Stefano base: the secret history of the bunkers in the La Maddalena Archipelago"},"content":{"rendered":"<h2 id=\"santo-stefano-base-nato-la-storia-segreta-dei-bunker-nellarcipelago-della-maddalena\"><span class=\"\">NATO\u2019s Santo Stefano base: the secret history of the bunkers in the Maddalena Archipelago<\/span><\/h2>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">Did you know that just a few kilometres from the idyllic beaches of the Maddalena Archipelago lies a fully militarised island, full of abandoned bunkers, missile silos and tales of Cold War spies?<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0That island is called Santo Stefano, and for decades it was one of NATO\u2019s most secret bases in the Mediterranean. Today you can see it on boat tours, but few people know what really lies hidden behind those granite rocks.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">In this article, you will discover:<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Why did NATO choose Santo Stefano, and what was it doing there?<\/span><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">The secret names of the base: \u201cLittle Italy\u201d and \u201cBase Athena\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Can you visit them today, and what are the risks of going inside the bunkers?<\/span><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">The difference between the Santo Stefano base and the Caprera base (\u201cLittle America\u201d)<\/span><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Facts that even the locals don\u2019t know<\/span><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">Reading time:<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a07 minutes. By the end, you\u2019ll know exactly what those bunkers you can see from the sea are, and whether it\u2019s worth (legally) getting closer to them.<\/span><\/p>\n<h2 id=\"perche-la-nato-ha-scelto-proprio-santo-stefano-la-posizione-strategica-che-non-ti-aspetti\"><span class=\"\">Why did NATO choose Santo Stefano of all places? The strategic location you wouldn\u2019t expect<\/span><\/h2>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">The short answer: Santo Stefano is situated exactly at the narrowest point of the Strait of Bonifacio, the channel separating Sardinia from Corsica. During the Cold War, this stretch of sea, just eleven kilometres wide, was considered a strategic \u201cbottleneck\u201d for control of the western Mediterranean.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">The long answer. It is the 1950s. The world is divided into two blocs: the United States and its NATO allies on one side, and the Soviet Union and the Warsaw Pact on the other. The Mediterranean is a crucial theatre: it is the passageway for Middle Eastern oil, for trade routes, and for military fleets. The Strait of Bonifacio, in particular, is a mandatory point of passage for any ship wishing to travel from the Tyrrhenian Sea to the Sardinian Sea.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">NATO was looking for forward bases to monitor the movements of Soviet submarines. They needed locations that were hidden, easily defensible, close to shipping lanes, but out of sight of civilians. The Maddalena Archipelago was perfect: a labyrinth of islands and islets, granite cliffs rising steeply from the sea, and an enviable geographical position.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Of all the islands in the archipelago, Santo Stefano had an added advantage. It is almost entirely surrounded by sheer cliffs, with a single, easily defensible access point by land. Furthermore, it had already been used for military purposes in the past: first by Napoleon\u2019s forces, then by the Italian Navy. In short, the ideal place to build something that was not meant to be seen.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">A little-known fact:<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0Even before NATO, there was already a small Italian Navy base on Santo Stefano. When the Americans arrived, they expanded it and turned it into a huge facility, with hundreds of military personnel, radar systems, and even a small jetty for mooring military vessels.<\/span><\/p>\n<h2 id=\"cosa-si-nascondeva-nei-bunker-di-santo-stefano-durante-la-guerra-fredda\"><span class=\"\">What was hidden in the bunkers at Santo Stefano during the Cold War?<\/span><\/h2>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">That\u2019s the question everyone asks when they see those grey structures jutting out of the granite. The answer is a bit complicated.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">The Santo Stefano base, officially known as \u201cBase Athena\u201d (named after the NATO operation that funded it), was not an offensive base. There were no nuclear missiles pointed towards the East. Its function was primarily one of surveillance and eavesdropping.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Inside the bunkers, hewn directly out of the granite rock, there were:<\/span><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">Maritime surveillance radar<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">, capable of tracking any ship or submarine in the Strait of Bonifacio<\/span><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">Communications monitoring stations<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0(SIGINT), to intercept radio transmissions from Warsaw Pact countries<\/span><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">A coordination centre<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0for NATO exercises in the western Mediterranean<\/span><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">Ammunition and fuel depots<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0(protected by thick reinforced concrete walls)<\/span><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">Accommodation for military personnel<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0(up to two hundred people, including Americans and Italians)<\/span><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">There was also a small infirmary, a canteen, and even a cinema for the stationed soldiers. The base was virtually self-sufficient: it had its own electricity generators, a water desalination plant, and food supplies to last for months.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">The little-known fact:<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0The American soldiers stationed at Santo Stefano jokingly called the island \u201cThe Rock\u201d, in a clear reference to Alcatraz. They felt like prisoners, cut off from the world, with their only link to the mainland being the weekly ferry that brought supplies and post. There were no women, no bars, no holidays. Just bunkers, radar and the sound of the wind.<\/span><\/p>\n<h2 id=\"quali-sono-i-nomi-segreti-della-base-little-italy-base-athena-e-altri-codici\"><span class=\"\">What are the code names for the base? Little Italy, Base Athena and other code names<\/span><\/h2>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">The Santo Stefano base has had at least three official names and several informal nicknames. Here is the story.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">The NATO technical designation was\u00a0<\/span><strong><span class=\"\">\u201cNaval Support Activity Santo Stefano\u201d<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">. But in internal US documents, it was often referred to as\u00a0<\/span><strong><span class=\"\">\u201cAthena Base\u201d<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">, named after the project that funded its construction between 1956 and 1958.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Among the Italian military, however, she was known as\u00a0<\/span><strong><span class=\"\">\u201cBase Perla\u201d<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0o\u00a0<\/span><strong><span class=\"\">\u201cGranite Base\u201d<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0(the name varied depending on the department). But the most famous nickname, the one still used by local fishermen today, is\u00a0<\/span><strong><span class=\"\">\u201cLittle Italy\u201d<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">. Yes, just like the New York neighbourhood. Why? Because the base was run by American personnel but had a high proportion of Italian-American servicemen, the children of immigrants who spoke a mixture of English and Southern Italian dialects.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">A curious anecdote:<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0It is said that during exercises, radio communications between Italian-American soldiers were incomprehensible to both \u201cpure\u201d Americans and Italians. They used a slang made up of English, Neapolitan and Sicilian. The Soviets, who were intercepting the transmissions, thought it was a coded message. In reality, it was just a conversation about where to go fishing at the weekend.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Following the closure of the base (which took place officially in 2008, though in practice as early as the 1990s), the island was returned to the Italian Navy. Today, there are no longer any military personnel permanently stationed there, but the area is still subject to military restrictions. Some bunkers have been sealed off, others have collapsed, and still others are technically accessible (though illegally).<\/span><\/p>\n<h2 id=\"cosa-rimane-oggi-dei-bunker-di-santo-stefano-un-viaggio-tra-rovine-e-divieti\"><span class=\"\">What remains of the Santo Stefano bunkers today? A journey through ruins and restricted areas<\/span><\/h2>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Today, if you take a boat trip from Palau or La Maddalena, you\u2019ll sail around Santo Stefano. And you\u2019ll see them. It\u2019s impossible not to. Grey, boxy structures rising out of the Mediterranean scrub, overlooking the sea from a sheer cliff. They are the remains of the NATO base.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">What exactly can you see from the sea:<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">The large bunker halfway up the hillside.<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0It is the most prominent. A rectangular structure, almost entirely carved out of the rock, with narrow slits and a reinforced door that is still locked. It was the command centre and the radar rooms.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">The silos at the top of the island.<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0They look like small concrete domes. They weren\u2019t missiles: they were supports for radio and radar antennas. Some are still intact, others have collapsed.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">The quays and bunkering points.<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0On the south-west coast, there are the remains of a small military harbour, with mooring rings still set into the rock. It was the only supply point by sea.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">The former powder magazine.<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0An isolated structure, set apart from the rest, surrounded by a double concrete wall. It used to be the ammunition depot. Today, it is the only building that is still officially off-limits (signs reading \u201cmilitary area \u2013 no entry\u201d).<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">Can you visit the Santo Stefano base?<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0The answer is: officially no, technically yes, but not recommended.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Access by land is only possible with a special permit from the Italian Navy. Permits are rarely issued, almost exclusively to historical researchers or journalists. Ordinary tourists are not allowed to set foot on the island, except at certain specific points (such as Cala Granara beach, which is public). However, the bunker area is fenced off and under video surveillance.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">What are the risks for those who enter the country illegally?<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0If you venture into the bunkers without permission, you risk being reported for trespassing on military property. The fine ranges from \u20ac150 to over \u20ac1,000, plus criminal charges if you damage the structures. Furthermore, many bunkers are in a state of disrepair: pieces of concrete fall from the walls, there are holes in the ground, and some contain asbestos. It is not a place for amateur explorers.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">A legal alternative:<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0You can visit the bunkers on Caprera, which are freely accessible and very similar. On Caprera, the former NATO posts at Punta Rossa and Poggio Rasu are open to everyone, with no fences or restrictions. They aren\u2019t as impressive as those on Santo Stefano, but at least you can go inside without risking a fine.<\/span><\/p>\n<h2 id=\"base-di-santo-stefano-vs-base-di-caprera-qual-e-la-differenza\"><span class=\"\">Santo Stefano base vs Caprera base: what\u2019s the difference?<\/span><\/h2>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Many people confuse the two bases. In reality, they are very different. Here is a clear comparison.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">Boxing Day (Athena Base \/ Little Italy):<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Main function: maritime surveillance and communications interception<\/span><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Size: large (over two hundred soldiers)<\/span><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Period of operation: 1956\u20132008 (officially)<\/span><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Access today: prohibited (military area active only in name)<\/span><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Condition of the structures: reasonably well preserved; some bunkers are still intact<\/span><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">Caprera (Little America Base):<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Main function: NATO logistics and communications support<\/span><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Size: smaller (around fifty soldiers)<\/span><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Active period: approximately 1960\u20131994<\/span><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Access today: free (part of the La Maddalena Archipelago National Park)<\/span><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Condition of the buildings: derelict, partially collapsed, but accessible without a permit<\/span><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">The key difference is that the Caprera base consisted of an antenna and a radio station, whereas the Santo Stefano base was a command and control centre. Santo Stefano was the \u201cbrain\u201d, Caprera was the \u201cear\u201d. That is why Santo Stefano is more heavily fortified and more secretive.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">A technical detail:<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0The two bases were connected by an undersea cable. Yes, there was a military telephone cable laid on the seabed between the two islands, which ensured secure, tap-proof communications. The remains of that cable are still visible in some places along the coast, if you know where to look.<\/span><\/p>\n<h2 id=\"si-puo-visitare-santo-stefano-oggi-tutto-quello-che-devi-sapere-e-cosa-rischi\"><span class=\"\">Can you visit Santo Stefano today? Everything you need to know (and what you risk)<\/span><\/h2>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">The question every tourist asks when they see the island from the boat. Here\u2019s the full answer.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">Areas open to the public:<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0Just Cala Granara, the most beautiful beach in Santo Stefano, and the paths leading to Cala Granara. This area is open to the public; it forms part of the La Maddalena Archipelago National Park, and you can visit it without any trouble. You can get there on a boat tour or by hiring a dinghy.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">Restricted areas:<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0the rest of the island, particularly the eastern and southern parts where the bunkers are located. There are signs in Italian and English reading: \u201cMilitary area \u2013 unauthorised access prohibited\u201d. Crossing the boundary is an offence.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">What happens if you go in anyway:<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0The Royal Navy carries out spot checks, particularly during the high season. Fines start at \u20ac150 and can exceed \u20ac1,000. In the event of damage to the structures (even if unintentional), criminal charges will be brought. Furthermore, many bunkers are in a state of disrepair: rubble falls from the walls, the floors are unstable, and some contain asbestos. It is not a safe place.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">A legal way to see the bunkers:<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0Instead of taking any risks, hire a dinghy and circle the island. The bunkers are clearly visible from a distance. You can stop a few dozen metres from the coast, take photos with a telephoto lens, and enjoy the same view without breaking the law. Many organised boat tours do just that: a slow cruise past the bunkers, with the guide recounting the history.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">The future of Santo Stefano:<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0There have been proposals to turn the former NATO base into a Cold War museum, modelled on disused bases in Croatia or Greece. But at present there are neither funds nor agreements between the Ministry of Defence, the Region of Sardinia and the National Park. Everything remains at a standstill. For now, Santo Stefano remains a closed-off island, a ghost town of concrete and granite.<\/span><\/p>\n<h2 id=\"curiosita-su-santo-stefano-che-nessuno-ti-racconta\"><span class=\"\">Interesting facts about St Stephen that nobody tells you<\/span><\/h2>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Before I go, here are a few interesting facts that will make your boat trip much more interesting.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">The legend of the Soviet submarine.<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0It is said that in the early 1970s, a Soviet Foxtrot-class submarine was spotted by radar stations at Santo Stefano whilst attempting to cross the Strait of Bonifacio whilst submerged. The base raised the alarm, and two NATO destroyers pursued it for hours, until it took refuge in Albanian territorial waters (Albania was then an ally of the USSR). There is no documentary evidence, but the old local fishermen swear they saw the destroyers.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">The ghost of the American soldier.<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0Some boaters claim to have seen, on foggy nights, a figure in a US Army uniform walking along the abandoned jetty. An urban legend? Probably. But the fact that it has been recounted by several independent witnesses makes it all the more intriguing.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">The smugglers\u2019 treasure.<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0During the years the base was in operation, cigarette and alcohol smugglers operating between Sardinia and Corsica used the island as a transit point. It is said that they hid entire shipments in some caves along the north coast, those not visible from the bunkers. No one has ever found anything, but every now and then an amateur diver ventures into the caves with a torch and a dream.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">The name \u201cSanto Stefano\u201d has nothing to do with the saint.<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0The island is named not after Saint Stephen the Protomartyr, but after a small medieval church that no longer exists. At the top of the island stood the ruins of a small 12th-century religious building, destroyed during the Saracen raids. Today, nothing remains, not even a single stone.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">Is the island private? No, but almost.<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0Santo Stefano is military land, and therefore owned by the Italian State. However, the Italian Navy has exclusive management rights over it. In practice, it is as if it were private: no one can enter without permission. The exceptions are Cala Granara (which is public by law, as it is a beach) and the paths leading to Cala Granara (which are also public). The rest is off-limits.<\/span><\/p>\n<h2 id=\"come-vedere-i-bunker-di-santo-stefano-senza-infrangere-la-legge-5-modi-legali\"><span class=\"\">How to see the Santo Stefano bunkers without breaking the law (5 legal ways)<\/span><\/h2>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">If you want to see the bunkers but don\u2019t want to risk a fine, here are five legal and safe ways to do so.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">Option 1: Organised boat tour.<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0Most boat tours departing from Palau, La Maddalena or Santa Teresa Gallura include a stop at Santo Stefano. The guide stops the dinghy a few dozen metres from the shore, tells the story of the base, and lets you take photos. It costs between \u20ac30 and \u20ac50 per person for a full day.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">Option 2: Inflatable boat hire.<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0If you hire a dinghy (with or without a boat licence, depending on the engine power), you can explore around Santo Stefano on your own. Stop in front of the bunkers, but don\u2019t get too close to the shore. The safety distance is at least 50 metres. As well as being legal, it\u2019s safer (you\u2019ll avoid shoals and exposed rocks).<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">Option 3: Sea kayaking.<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0If you\u2019re the sporty type, you can hire a kayak in La Maddalena and paddle over to Santo Stefano. The distance is about two kilometres. From the kayak, you can see the bunkers from an angle that rubber dinghies can\u2019t reach. Watch out for the wind and currents: the Strait of Bonifacio can be treacherous.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">Route 4: Cala Granara Trail.<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0You can go ashore at Cala Granara (the beach is public) and from there walk along the path that runs along the coast. You won\u2019t reach the bunkers (they\u2019re off-limits), but you\u2019ll see some outlying structures and the remains of the jetty. Please respect the signs: if it says \u201cno entry\u201d, do not go beyond that point.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong><span class=\"\">Method 5: Drone (with authorisation).<\/span><\/strong><span class=\"\">\u00a0You can apply to the La Maddalena Archipelago National Park for permission to fly a drone over Santo Stefano. Permissions are rarely granted and take time to process (at least one month\u2019s notice is required), but if you are a professional photographer or documentary filmmaker, you may be able to obtain them. Alternatively, many photographers use telephoto lenses from the mainland (from Punta Sardegna or Caprera) to capture the bunkers.<\/span><\/p>\n<h2 id=\"conclusione-santo-stefano-unisola-di-silenzio-e-segreti\"><span class=\"\">Conclusion: Santo Stefano, an island of silence and secrets<\/span><\/h2>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Santo Stefano is not like the other islands in the Maddalena Archipelago. It has no crowded beaches, no trendy restaurants, no luxury hotels. It has abandoned bunkers, tales of spies and soldiers, and a silence broken only by the wind and the waves. It is an island you do not visit, but observe from afar. And perhaps that is for the best.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Because if you could go inside, if you could walk through those bunkers, you would still feel the weight of the Cold War. You would feel the fear of a world split in two, the tension of decades in which a single mistake could have led to a nuclear catastrophe. Santo Stefano is a monument to that fear. A monument of concrete and granite, corroded by salt, which no one has yet decided whether to demolish or turn into a museum.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Today, as a tourist, there\u2019s only one thing you can do: look. Look at those grey bunkers peeking out from the Mediterranean scrub, imagine the American soldiers walking along that pier, think of the radars scanning the horizon for submarines. And then turn around, look at the blue sea, and be thankful that that war never actually happened.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><span class=\"\">Next time you\u2019re out on a boat in the Maddalena Archipelago, ask your guide to take you past Santo Stefano. Don\u2019t just stop at Cala Granara. Stop to see the bunkers. They have a story to tell.<\/span><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Santo Stefano base NATO: la storia segreta dei bunker nell&#8217;Arcipelago della Maddalena Lo sapevi che a pochi chilometri dalle spiagge da sogno dell&#8217;Arcipelago della Maddalena esiste un&#8217;isola interamente militarizzata, piena di bunker abbandonati, silos missilistici e storie di spie della Guerra Fredda?\u00a0Quell&#8217;isola si chiama Santo Stefano, ed \u00e8 stata per decenni una delle basi pi\u00f9 [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":13253,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-13203","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-default"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.petagus.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13203","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.petagus.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.petagus.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.petagus.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.petagus.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=13203"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.petagus.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13203\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.petagus.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/13253"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.petagus.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=13203"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.petagus.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=13203"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.petagus.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=13203"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}